Every epoxy flooring contractor in Seattle says they're the best. We'd rather hand you the checklist: how coating companies differ, what to get in writing and what our crew does on every floor. Get three quotes, ours included.
Here's the uncomfortable truth about hiring garage floor epoxy installers: on the day the job is done, every floor looks great. Cheap or expensive, a guy with a van or a national brand, you can't tell them apart by looking, and neither can your neighbors.
Where they come apart is two or three winters later, and it's always the same two things: how far the concrete was ground, and whether anyone tested the slab for moisture. So when you compare epoxy floor contractors in Seattle, you're really comparing prep. Here's how to do that without a chemistry degree.



Search "epoxy floor installers near me" and the map fills with pins. Nearly every one falls into one of these four groups, each with an honest upside and an honest catch.
A known system, a branded warranty and a polished sales visit. The catch: the crew is local to the territory, so you're buying that crew, not the logo. Ask who actually installs, and for how long.
Companies that do nothing but concrete coatings, and the good ones know your slab better than anyone. The catch: the word covers a twenty-year crew and last spring's startup alike. Reviews with photos over several years tell you which.
Plenty of trades will coat a floor if you ask, and some do it well. The catch: a coating is a grinding job, not a painting job, and most painting crews don't own a diamond grinder or a moisture meter.
You're the installer: a few hundred dollars of material and a weekend. The catch: kits skip grinding, the moisture test and usually the clear topcoat, which is why so many peel by the second spring. Kit vs. pro, honestly.
Not trick questions. A company with a real process answers all six without changing the subject. If one squirms, you've learned something cheaper than a new floor.
Diamond grinding or acid etch? If grinding, how many passes, and are the edges done by hand? One light pass leaves the weak top layer right where it was.
In Seattle, this is the question. Ask how they test, and whether a moisture barrier is included, available or not offered at all.
Primer or barrier, base coat, flake and topcoat, by product name. An installer who can't name them isn't thinking about your floor as a system.
"We'll take care of it" is not a method. "Filled and ground flush" is. "Cut open and rebuilt" is. Know which one you're paying for.
Real hours, not "a day or two." The cure times tell you a lot about the chemistry you're actually buying.
Look for the word adhesion: peeling, blistering, hot-tire pickup. Ask whether it covers labor, whether it transfers, and what voids it.
Six more on price and paperwork, printable: 12 questions to ask a garage floor contractor.
You'll see most of these in the first phone call.
We'd rather be compared than trusted. The same answers, from the same installers, on every floor we put down in the Seattle area.

Read what homeowners say on our reviews page, look at the floors below, then call (206) 895-7444 and ask us the six questions. We'll enjoy it.








Get three quotes and compare them on prep, moisture testing, named products, crack repair and warranty wording, not on price. Ask to see a floor installed in the last few months near you, and read reviews with photos spread over a few years. The cheapest quote is almost always a thinner product, not a better deal.
Both, in the way most people mean it. We're garage floor coating installers. The floor we put down is a polyurea base with full flake under a clear polyaspartic topcoat, which is the upgrade on plain epoxy for a Seattle garage: it cures in the cold, handles damp air, never yellows, and takes a car after 72 hours.
Across the Seattle market, roughly $4 to $12 per square foot installed, so a two-car garage commonly runs $1,600 to $5,800. The low end is a thin coating with light prep. The high end is diamond grinding, crack repair, a moisture barrier and a polyaspartic topcoat. Our installation cost page breaks it down.
Only if they'll prep it the way a coating company would: diamond grinding, a moisture test, crack repair and a clear topcoat. A coated floor fails from below, not from the finish. If the plan is to clean and etch the slab and roll two coats, you're buying a paint job, and it'll last like one.
Everything, by name: the square footage, the grinding, crack and joint repair, the moisture test and the barrier if your slab needs it, the base coat, full flake and polyaspartic topcoat, cure times, the warranty wording, and on a Premium floor the included upgrades listed at $0. It's written, itemized and final.
Three. More than that and they blur together. Ask every installer the same six questions and put the answers side by side. If one quote has blanks where the prep and the moisture test should be, that explains its price.
Free 20-minute estimate. We answer every question on this page and leave an exact price in writing.